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Award-winning author, critic and food maven Arthur Schwartz is a regular guest at the 92nd Street Y and one of the country’s foremost experts on food, cooking, culinary history, restaurants and restaurant history. He makes his next Y appearance on March 16 but first shares his recipe for potato kugel, from the book Arthur Schwartz’s Jewish Home Cooking.
“This potato kugel is much lighter, lower in fat, yet more savory than old-fashioned recipes. It is a good dish for Passover but also for any other time of the year.”
—Arthur Schwartz
3 lbs. russet (baking) potatoes
12 eggs
2 medium onions, peeled and cut into chunks
2⁄3 cup matzoh meal
1 tbsp. salt
3⁄4 to 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp. vegetable oil or schmaltz
Preheat oven to 350ºF. Peel the potatoes and chunk them up. Keep in a bowl of cold water until ready to process. Beat eggs in a very large bowl until well mixed. In the food processor bowl, pulse the onion until very finely chopped (not liquefied). Stir the onion into the bowl with the eggs. Stir in the matzoh meal. Drain the potatoes.
In three batches, process the potatoes until very finely chopped (no bigger than a grain of rice). As each batch of potatoes is processed, immediately scrape it into a strainer placed over a bowl. Use a spatula or spoon press out the moisture. Immediately, stir the potatoes into the onion and egg mixture. Season the batter with salt and pepper.
Coat the bottom and sides of a 13 by 9-inch baking pan with 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil or schmaltz. Place the empty pan in the preheated oven for 5 minutes, then remove and pour the potato batter into the pan. Press the batter down near the corners. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of oil or melted schmaltz on the surface of the batter. Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, until lightly browned. Let rest for at least 15 minutes before cutting and serving. Serve hot or warm, freshly baked or reheated (uncovered, in a 350ºF oven).
Serves at least 12.
[92nd Street Y Jewish Cookbook]
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