The New York Times has published a fascinating review of their former restaurant critic William Grimes’ new book, Appetite City: A Culinary History of New York:

In 1815, Paris had 3,000 restaurants; New York had none. (In fact, the word itself wouldn’t enter the American lexicon until the middle of the 19th century.) Those forced to eat out could choose between “a slab of beef or mutton with potatoes and gravy” at a boardinghouse or chophouse, reports William Grimes, a New York Times domestic correspondent and formerly the newspaper’s restaurant critic, whose latest book is a chronicle of New York’s transformation from a Dutch village at the edge of the wilderness to what he sees as the most diverse restaurant city in the world.

In the 1820s, Grimes reminds us, time spent eating was time taken away “from the serious business of making money,” and Manhattanites were distinctly lacking in culinary sophistication. Even at the best hotels, the notion of courses didn’t exist: everything was set out at once, squab compote jostling with cream puffs. At the sound of a gong, the American guests stampeded the dining room where, to the surprise of their European counterparts, they set about “gobbling down” their meals “in silence.” So it was quietly revolutionary when, in 1827, two Swiss brothers named Delmonico brought “a whiff of Paris” onto William Street with their “little French confectionery and café.” Delmonico’s, Grimes writes, “established the tone for fine dining in New York almost overnight, and it would remain pre-eminent until the 1890s.”

This has been quite a week for former New York Times restaurant critics. Frank Bruni, their most recent critic, was here earlier in the week to talk about his career at the Times, as well as his own book, Born Round. Only days later, we learned yesterday from New York‘s Grub Street that he recently signed a deal to turn the book into a movie.

This is causing us to have a future case of Déjà vu, as William Grimes is coming to 92YTribeca on Dec 8 for a discussion on his book, “an extended historical tour of the city’s hash houses, oyster cellars and four-star restaurants, from the days of the Delmonico’s to the era of Per Se and the superstar TV chef.” And if you find yourself hungry, our Cafe makes wonderful foods!

So now the question is, who will be the first to report on his book to movie deal, should it materialize?

Upcoming talks at 92YTribeca: